Posts Tagged ‘Ingredient Series’

Ingredient Series – Cetyl Alcohol…It is Everywhere, but What is It?

Monday, August 2nd, 2010

Cetyl alcohol can be found in many hair and skincare products.  It is either created synthetically, a byproduct of petroleum or derived from a number of different plant sources (most commonly coconut).  Cetyl alcohol bares no resemblance to what most think of as alcohol.  Unlike isopropyl, ethyl, or “rubbing” alcohol, cetyl alcohol is a “fatty” alcohol, not drying to the skin and has a texture more like wax.

Cetyl alcohol is used in cosmetic preparations for a number of reasons.  It is an emulsifier which means it holds together preparations of water and oil, and an emollient which means it leaves skin or hair feeling smooth and soft.  It’s wax-like texture thickens formulations, helps them spread smoothly and turns the color opaque.  It also creates an occlusive barrier on the skin which holds in water and can keeps natural moisture from escaping the epidermis.

Although most people would agree that cetyl alcohol is not an ingredient that causes harm or irritation to the skin, I would be wary of products that have it listed as one of the first ingredients.  Ingredients are listed in order of prevalence, so the farther up the list, the more of it is found in a product.  In my opinion, although it is not irritating to skin, it is not particularly beneficial to the health of skin either.  It may not hurt, but it doesn’t really help anything either.  I should say that found further down the list is fine as it does have some benefits in terms of the actual product such as improving texture, keeping products from separating and improving the ability of a product to spread.

Olay Regenerist and Cyclopentasiloxane

Thursday, March 11th, 2010

Cyclopentasiloxane (CPS) is one of the premier ingredients in the popular Olay Regenerist line of skincare products.   CPS is one type of a group of ingredients called silicones that are often found in skin and haircare products.  Products that contain silicones coat the skin or hair leaving it feeling smooth and silky.  Silicones can also fill in fine lines on the skin which offers a temporary plumping effect.

CPS is a bit special in the fact that it is a very lightweight and volital silicone.  This makes it an easy ingredient to use in skincare products as it’s watery texture helps spread thicker ingredients more easily.  Additionally, the volatility of CPS means it evaporates from the skin without leaving a heavy or greasy residue.

There is controversy surrounding the use of CPS and Canada has deemed it a “potential concern to the environment“ due to findings that show after being washed down a drain it accumulates in the water causing harm to wild life and plant life.  It has also been flagged for further review by the Cosmetics Ingredients Review board due to biochemical changes, endocrine disruption, and possible tumor formation shown in animal studies.

And Olay Regenerist?  Most reviews I have read say that there is not much of an effect on the skin after using it for a time.  Others claim that it causes skin irritation and a few call it a miracle cream.  In examining the ingredient list I have found that of the first seven ingredients, four are silicones, which as stated above, coat the skin to make it feel silky and smooth while temporarily filling in fine lines.  The other three are water, glycerin, which is a humectant that attracts water to the skin, and Niacinamide which is an anti-inflammatory most often used to treat acne.  It would seem that as a product, Regenerist doesn’t have many ingredients that are going to offer any real change or healing to your skin.

But, as with all skincare products, my philosophy is that if you are happy with the results than it is the right product for you.  There are many drugstore products that work wonderfully for some people.  And for others, even the most expensive cream – with the highest concentrations of quality ingredients – will not offer the desired results.

Ingredient Series – Neroli

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

It is said that Neroli oil became a fashionable fragrance in the late 17th century when the Italian Princess of Nerola began using it as a scent.  It’s popularity has prevailed, and it is still found in many skincare products.  The many therapeutic effects are amplified by the oil’s wonderful sweet and spicy aroma.

Neroli oil is carefully distilled from the delicate flowers of the bitter orange tree and the process yields roughly .08-1% oil.  This means that processing 1000 pounds of the flower results in only 1 pound of oil.

Neroli oil has a wide array of therapeutic benefits.  Using Neroli as aromatherapy induces extreme feelings of relaxation and helps to relieve feelings of anxiety and fear.  It is also non-toxic, non-sensitizing, non-irritant and non-phototoxic which makes it an easy oil to incorporate into skincare products.  When applied to the skin it can aid in cell regeneration by stimulating the growth of healthy cells and improving cellular activity.  Nerloi has a balancing effect on the oil production in the skin so both oily and dry skin can benefit from it’s use.  It is a wonderful ingredient in products for sensitive skin as well as it works to calm the skin and constrict tiny capillaries which reduces redness and inflammation.

Neroli oil holds  prominent place in the Decleor line.  It is used in the Aromessence Neroli oil for day and balm for night as well as the Hydra Floral face care where it works to calm, soften and sooth all skin types.