The connections between oily skin, acne, premature aging and harsh, over-the-counter acne face treatments are not always clear to people when dealing with skin issues, but these things are all closely related, and I have found that most people don’t always understand the implications of the skincare choices they make.

I want to start by talking about the oil our skin produces. From the time we are teenagers we are sold products that will “wash away dirt and oil” or “dry out excess oil” or “zap zits”. This leads everyone to believe that the oil in our skin is something that needs to be removed when, in fact, just the opposite is true. Our skin produces oil which mixes with sweat to create a barrier called the acid mantle. This barrier does two important jobs. Firstly, it keeps out environmental pollutants, bacteria and microorganisms that could damage our skin, and secondly it creates an occlusive wall that holds moisture in.

Products that wash away oil disrupt this process and trigger a number of negative changes in the skin. Foaming cleansers or soap that leave the skin feeling tight have washed away this protective barrier and leave the skin exposed to bacteria that can actually contribute to breakouts. The oil that holds moisture in our skin is gone, causing our skin to dehydrate and flake further clogging our pores. And, perhaps surprisingly, washing the oil away from our skin triggers it to make more. We are left with dehydrated, tight skin that is producing more oil and is unprotected from the very things that irritate it.  Perhaps you have noticed that your skin stays clear for as long as you continue to use your products but if you stop, even for just a day, you see that your skin is just as unbalanced as it has been.  Your skin may be clear, but it is far from healed.

Additionally, as I mentioned above not only does the oil on our skin block out toxins, it also works to hold moisture in.  Keeping our skin well hydrated is the first step to keeping it looking healthy and young.  Anything that is done to compromise the effectiveness of the acid mantle sacrifices hydration and our skin cells (along with all of our other cells) need water to function at their highest potential.  Loss of water from your skin ages you drastically over time.

I would like to suggest a total shift in the perception of oily skin. Instead of trying to rid yourself of it, remember it is the thing that is keeping your skin young and healthy. Keeping your skin well hydrated is the number one thing that keeps you looking youthful, and skin with a bit of oil on it stays more hydrated naturally.  Breakouts can be avoided by keeping skin clean with a gentle cleanser and well hydrated with an oil-free or light-weight moisturizer.  I would also encourage you to add a product that is actually pure oil to your skincare routine.  This sounds counter intuitive, I understand, but just as washing oil from your skin triggers it to produce more, giving it oil helps to slow down it’s own oil production.  I assure you there is a balance that can be achieved at which your skin is performing optimally, hydrated and breakout free!