Working here at Eastern View, with an OBGYN right across the hall, I see quite a few women who are struggling with pigment changes in their skin. Melasma is the appearance of blotchy, brown-grey spots or patches on the skin and is often referred to as a “pregnancy mask”. Although the exact cause of melasma is not understood, it is often triggered by hormonal changes during pregnancy or while taking a hormonal contraceptive such as a birth control pill.
The darkening of melasma is often seen on the forehead, upper cheeks, upper lip and/or around the mouth. Women with a darker skin tone, or who tend to tan more easily are more likely to be effected. Darker skin has more active melanocytes, which are the cells that produce pigment in the skin. It is also more likely to be seen on women who have a family history of melasma.
Sometimes the hyper-pigmentation fades after giving birth or after stopping use of the hormonal contraceptive but this is not always the case. Melasma can also be seen in women who are not pregnant or taking contraceptives. There are an array of treatment options, but like with most hyper-pigmentation, the results can be slow in coming. One of the most important things that can be done is to use sunscreen year round. Melanocytes are triggered by UV rays to protect the skin and this is done by producing melatonin, the darkening pigment.
Exfolients of different types such as AHA peels or microdermabration trigger the skin to turn over and shed off the damaged cells. Several applications are usually needed and it is important to be cautious though as damage to the melanocytes can cause them to produce more pigmentation.
The other common treatment option is the use of a tyrosinase inhibitor. These are creams or ingredients that inactivate the enzyme tyrosinase which is responsible for the production of melatonin which causes skin darkening. Hydroquinone is the most common of these ingredients, and has been shown to be effective. There are growing concerns, though, about the long term use of hydroquione and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has found it to be unsafe to be used in any “leave-on” products. It is also true that by reducing the melatonin in the skin, you are limiting your skins natural protection against UV exposure. This increases the risk for sun damage and skin cancer. It is imperative to be using a sunscreen every day while using any tyrosinase inhibitors.
Decleor, the product line we use here at SANO, uses natural ingredients such as saxifrage extract and skullcap root extract in their whitening line. These ingredients are safe to use long term, inhibit tyrosinase activity and correct pigmentation irregularities but still must be used in conjunction with a sunscreen in order to prevent UV damage.
Tags: Hydroquinone, Hyper-Pigmentation, Melasma, Pregnancy Mask, Tyrosinase, Tyrosinase Inhibitors
