Archive for November, 2009

Deep Cleaning and Manual Extractions

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

Here at SANO we see a number of clients who come in for regular deep cleaning facials that focus primarily on manual extractions.  There are a lot of reason you should not do this at home.  Here are a few.

Steam is an integral part of a facial that includes deep cleaning.  It softens the skin, sebum and debris that can block pores.  The heat relaxes the facial muscles and tissue which allows for easier manual extraction.  Professional steamers often produce ozone which has an antiseptic effect on the skin.  This lessens the chance that infection will be spread during  deep cleaning.

Professional exfoliation removes the dead, top layer of skin and skin or debris that may be blocking the clogged pores.

When applying pressure to remove a comedones the correct angle is imperative.  Improper technique forces debris further into the pore which can lead to infection.  Also, the correct amount of pressure is vital.  Not enough pressure will not remove all of the clog, while too much pressure can break down the follicle wall.  This can cause the infection to spread under the skin.

The use of instruments such as a lancet (disposable sharp instruments) often need to be used to create an opening in the dead skin that covers a breakout such as a whitehead.  Proper opening of the comedone reduces the amount of pressure that is needed to clear a clog from the skin and prevents the skin from tearing.

Lastly, and possible most importantly, and esthetician is trained to know when to not attempt to remove a clog or pustules that appear on or under the skin.  Extractions should never be attempted on active infections.  This can cause scaring, deeper cystic breakouts and the spread of the infection.

When done correctly, deep cleaning can allow pores to contract in size, refine the texture of the skin and release bacteria which speeds up the healing of breakouts.  It is often the only way to expel impurities from the skin.  But training and caution is an important factor.  Please don’t pick at your skin at home!

Reader Question

Tuesday, November 17th, 2009

I was recently asked another great question, and this is one I get often.

Q: What is the best way to deal with dry skin that still has break outs?

A: This is a confusing and frustrating situation for people, and one that is very common.  Part of the problem starts with the misunderstanding of the word “dry” and how it relates to your skin.  Dry skin is skin that produces little (or no) oil.  People with truly dry skin do not struggle with consistent break outs as there is no oil to cause clogging.

What I suspect the question above is actually referring to is dehydrated skin which is often found in conjunction with skin that is oily or prone to breaking out - some as a result of the types of products people choose to use to combat this problem.

From the time we are young we are taught that oil is something to be washed away from our skin.  That tight feeling left after using a foaming cleanser and hot water is thought to equal clean.  While you may be rid of the oil, the effect tends to be just the opposite of what people expect.  As I have mentioned before, the oil in and on your skin plays a really important part in keeping it healthy.  Oil and sweat mix on your skin to create a barrier called the acid mantle.  This barrier holds moisture in your skin while also creating a slightly acidic environment that protects your skin from outside invaders such as bacteria.

In my experience, people who are prone to breaking out tend to use products geared towards ridding their skin of oil, such as harsh cleansers and light moisturizers (if any).  This causes a chain reaction in your skin.  By washing away the oil on your skin, your skin is triggered to make more oil.  At the same time, though, the barrier you skin creates to hold moisture in your skin is compromised and water is able to evaporate leaving skin dehydrated and tight.  The excess oil that is being produced has no where to go and clogging can occur.  It can be compounded by the flakiness of dehydrated skin further clogging pores.  Additionally, the acidic enviroment on the skin is disrupted which leaves skin open to infection which can lead to even more breakouts or worsen existing ones….

What I suggest actually sounds very counter intuitive.  Add a little bit of oil into your skincare routine.  This has two major benefits.  First, by adding a little oil to your skin you can calm down you skin’s own oil production.  Secondly, the oil helps to create a barrier against the environment and also holds moisture into the skin.  Also, always use a moisturizer.  Be careful to not use a cleanser that is too drying.  Unless you have very oily skin, I recommend a cream cleanser with no foaming action.

What Does “Sensitive Skin” Really Mean?

Friday, November 13th, 2009

I have found that more people than not say that they struggle with skin sensitivities.  But what does that really mean?  “Sensitive skin”  is a term used to describe many different things and is not a medical term so it becomes a hard thing to define.  In the most general terms sensitive skin is easily irritated and that the irritation can range from mild to severe.

Most often, when people say they have sensitive skin they are referring to a reaction to a product or ingredient in a product they have used.  The common culprits are fragrance or detergent.  It is also common to have environmentally sensitive skin.  This could be due to allergies, dry or cold air or wind.  Both of these types of sensitivities can ”spiral” and a person may find that if their skin is already compromised by the dry air, for example, it could be more easily irritated by cosmetics or skincare products.

Rosacea and acne are examples of the third type of sensitive skin where inflammation and irritation is more chronic.  There is often swelling, redness, broken blood vessels and skin eruptions present.

Because sensitivities can be triggered by a number of different causes, sensitive skin can be frustrating and difficult to manage.  If you are struggling with skin sensitivities it is important to keep a detailed log of what causes irritations.  Food, environment, allergies and products are all possible culprits and it is an experiment to see what combinations of things will work best for you.

Friday Thought

Friday, November 6th, 2009

It’s not what you gather but what you scatter that tells what kind of life you have lived.

~Unknown

What is My Skin Type?

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

With the overwhelming number of skincare products available today choosing the correct products can be a daunting task.  The first step to finding effective products is understanding your skin-type.  Each skin-type has unique issues and concerns that should be addressed by the product you use on a daily basis.

Skin can be characterised in the following three ways:

Normal Skin is skin that is balanced.  It produces enough oil to create an effective hydro-lipid barrier but does not appear shiny.  It is firm, supple and elastic.  The pores are not highly visible and the texture is smooth.  Good circulation leads to healthy, bright complexion.

Dry Skin is skin that does not produce enough oil.  It can seem dull and often feels tight.  Lack of oil on the skin can lead to tightness, flakeyness and premature aging.  Pores tend to be nearly invisible, but skin lacks firmness and elasticity.

Oily Skin is skin that produces too much oil and can take two forms.  In the first case, too much oil is secreted onto the skin leaving it looking slick and greasy.  In the second case excess oil creates hard plugs clogging pores and causing breakouts.  Pores on oily skin tend to be larger and the texture of the skin can be rough.

Additionally, there are sub-categories of skin-types that can further effect each of the categories above:

Sensitive Skin is skin that is thin in texture and often has blood vessels close to the surface.  As a result it is easily effected by the environment externally and internally and tends to blotchiness, redness, heat and irritation.  Skin that is sensitive and dry tends to become dryer under stress, where as skin that is sensitive and oily tends to produce more oil and clog when under stress.

Dehydrated Skin is skin that is lacking in water.  It is often flaky and itchy.  Oily dehydrated skin is often created by the use of harsh products compromising the hydro-lipid barrier which allows water to evaporate from the surface of the skin.  Oily dehydrated skin tends to breakout as a result of pores being clogged by the flaky skin and an over-production of oil caused when oil is washed away from the skin.  Dehydrated dry skin is common among those that struggle with dry skin as it is the oil your skin produces that holds water in.  Many of the same issues that plague people with dry skin are amplified by the addition of dehydration.

Understanding these classifications will help you pick the most effective products for your skin which will lead to the best results.  Remember, SANO offers free 10 minute skin consultations in which we can help you figure out what will work best for your skin.  We are always happy to answer any questions you might have about how to best treat your skin or any products you are using.